I often hear people say things like, “oh I loved such-and-such a place. Can’t wait to go back!”  While I’ve loved nearly every trip we’ve taken, I don’t have much of a desire to return to most places I’ve visited. The list is quite small for me.

New York. I would go back to NYC because it’s a city that’s always changing and there are always new opportunities for theater, shopping, and dining there. I don’t feel a need to go back to the touristy spots there that we’ve seen. There is so much to do in the city that a visit can be quite full without seeing any of it again.

Maine. After spending summer vacations there as a kid, Maine feels like home to me, so I would be happy to go back and spend some time by the ocean, eating lobster and shellfish. I could just park myself there for a few days without running around and seeing much, since I’ve been to so many towns and areas of the state already.

Ireland and Scotland. These places spoke to my roots in a very deep way and I felt very comfortable and at home here. I could see myself spending time there, just living there for a month or two.

Naples, Florida. We’ve been to Florida every year for the past 17, so there’s no doubt we will keep returning since my parents spend the winters there. Naples is a nice mix of perfect beaches and decent shopping and dining so it’s great for a winter getaway. It’s also relaxing to go someplace where you know where everything is.

I can’t think of any other place I want to go back to. Instead of trying to recreate wonderful trips from the past, I’m more interested in seeing something new and experiencing a new place. Although I’ve been to quite a few Caribbean islands, I haven’t yet found one that is completely perfect. I’ll keep trying new ones. I’m more inclined to use the destinations I’ve loved as inspiration for other places to go. We loved Japan so maybe we should go to China. Italy and France were fantastic, so Spain, Portugal, and Switzerland would likely make us happy.  Hawaii was amazing, so Fiji would be too. Yellowstone was stunning, so Yosemite would be wonderful to visit.

Are there destinations you’ve been to that you are hot to return to? What are they?

I often hear people say things like, “oh I loved such-and-such a place. Can’t wait to go back!”  While I’ve loved nearly every trip we’ve taken, I don’t have much of a desire to return to most places I’ve visited. The list is quite small for me. New York. I would go back to NYC … Read more →

On our recent trip to Asia we stayed exclusively at Ritz Carlton properties, which provided an excellent point of comparison between them. Kyoto was my favorite.

One brief note about the Ritz hotels in general before I share details about the Kyoto property. We were traveling as a party of three (myself, my husband, and our 23 year old daughter). It is nearly impossible to find hotel rooms in Asia that can accommodate three people, unless you get a roll away cot. We find roll aways to be very uncomfortable for adults, so did not want this option. Most hotels in Asia and Japan have rooms with a king size bed or two twins. The Ritz is the only hotel we found that had double beds, allowing us to fit three people in the rooms. The only alternative was to pay for two rooms and most hotels could not guarantee the rooms would connect or even be on the same floor. It ended up being less expensive to book one room at the Ritz than two rooms at a lesser chain. I’m still stunned that this was the case, but it was. We also found that the level of service and the amenities that came with the hotel provided great value to us.

Another note is that we had great difficulty actually getting our reservations made correctly. We booked directly through the Ritz booking line and were quoted rates for three people in the room with breakfast included. We wrote down the rates we were given. The calls were being recorded. We then received email confirmations that listed higher rates, with additional fees for the third person and not including breakfast for all three of us. Emails to the individual hotel properties did not resolve the issue. My tweet to Ritz went unanswered. We escalated the issue to Ritz corporate headquarters where we were assured the problem would easily and quickly be resolved. It took more than a month to get all three of our reservation corrected. The corporate person who was initially so anxious to help us became unreachable and it took many emails and voicemails to get all the reservations corrected. The good news is everything was eventually corrected. The bad news is it took so long and so much effort on our part to accomplish this.

The Setting

The Kyoto Ritz Carlton hotel is located next to the Kamogawa River and is on a side street, near a busy shopping area. It is centrally located with most areas of interest a short drive away. You don’t even notice the hotel is there as you walk past since the entrance is through a garage. It has a very discrete feeling to it. Once you’re dropped off at the bellman’s desk inside the garage, you walk under a pergola across a bubbling

man-made stream with waterfalls to the unassuming door of the hotel. It’s worth stopping out here for a moment though to enjoy

this serene and truly Japanese garden. It provides a soothing moment of calm before entering the hotel. One of the greeters who is always present at the bell area wears a traditional kimono, which is a nice touch.

The Common Areas

The lobby is broken up into areas. When you first enter, you walk directly by the concierge desk and a small seating area. Walk though a large wooden automatic door and you enter the main lobby with seating areas, a macaron counter, a lounge, and eventually the main desk. The lobby is unassuming but quietly elegant. There are jars of Japanese candy in the corner of a sitting area if you need something sweet.

Elevators lead to the upper floors. The hallways are very Japanese with panels and hidden closets. The hallways feel quiet and private.

Our Room

We entered our room to find it segmented into three areas: a hallway, bathroom, and main bedroom. The hallway ran next to the bathroom but there was curiously no door between the two areas at the bathroom opening right by the front door. The hallway consisted of a bar area, mini fridge, mirror and some shallow storage. It was nice to have this separate area for storage and it made the room

feel larger to have a separate little space.

The main bedroom area was spacious compared to the other Ritz properties we stayed at. There were two double beds as well as a day bed with a twin size mattress. The beds were of course wonderfully comfortable. The nightstands next to the beds had buttons that controlled the lighting and draperies in the room, which is very convenient. The day bed had a small table next to it. A seating area contained two chairs and a table, as well as a storage unit. A plate of grapes greeted us. A glass door led to the patio which faced the river. Two chairs and a table beckoned us to sit and relax. We could not actually see the river due to the trees, but we could hear it and the sound of it enchanted me. I left the door open to be able to hear it (more on this in a minute!).

The bathroom was similarly spacious. A double sink vanity with mirror and TV took up one wall. On the counter was a large black lacquer box containing toiletries. There was not a lot of counter space, however. The tub and shower were in a glass enclosed room (which meant there was no way for two people to be

in the bathroom at the same time if privacy was required) with the shower area simply comprising all of the space next to the tub. It had a wooded slat floor. The tub was deep for soaking. The Western style toilet with requisite Japanese toilet seat was in a small room, next to a closet.

We found the room to be extremely comfortable. However, because I had left the door to the patio open, soon the room began to smell like dead fish. We quickly closed the door but the room continued to smell this way for our entire stay. It was distracting and did in part ruin the experience. We did not

complain to the staff because I felt I had caused the problem by leaving the door open for an hour or so and because I really thought the smell would dissipate once the door was closed. Instead it simply reeked for our entire three-night stay. If the housekeeping staff noticed, they did nothing.

Staffing

The staff at the hotel was excellent. They view themselves as a small high-service hotel, and it shows. I contacted guest services

before we left home to get assistance with restaurant recommendations and to arrange transportation. They responded to emails swiftly and with courtesy. We arrived extremely early for check-in and after a brief wait, our room was ready. We were invited to sit on couches during check in while the woman assisting us knelt on the floor at the coffee table. This felt a little odd to us Westerners but we understood the courtesy of the gesture.

We asked to have a bucket of ice brought to the room each evening and that request was handled without an issue. The concierge staff arranged for a car and driver for a day for us, made restaurant reservations, and provided directions to shopping areas. The concierge staff spoke excellent English and were all very accommodating, if a bit perplexed at our reluctance to dine at extremely high-priced restaurants.

All of the Ritz properties have greeters, but we found those at this property to be the most low-key (but still a bit aggressively friendly). Because the lobby is set up around a staircase going down to the restaurant, there are two paths to the elevators, one of which goes by the main desk and one which does not. We sometimes prefer to just be left alone, so we walked on the side away from the desk when we didn’t feel like answering questions about our day.

We found the bell desk to be very helpful in arranging for transportation to and from the train station and providing taxis when necessary. Whenever the hotel arranged transportation for us with a prior reservation (such as reserving a van to take us to the train, not when we just walked up and asked for a taxi), they always stocked the car or van with bottled water for us which was a nice touch. When they called a taxi for us they always communicated with the driver to explain where to take us, since there was usually a language barrier.

When staying in a country like Japan where the language barrier can be great, it was a great comfort to stay someplace where the staff willingly made all the arrangements we needed, including informing restaurants we needed only gluten-free choices.

 

Activities

One of the lovely features of this hotel is that they offer a variety of free activities and classes, such as origami, flower arranging, or use of bicycles. The bath products were high quality and the bathroom was even stocked with a hair brush, combs, nail files, and more. Our supply of bottled water was always replenished in the room.

Dining

We enjoyed breakfast in the hotel each morning. Entering the dining room we were subjected to an assembly line greeting from every staff member. Again, the Ritz

errs on the side of over-friendliness which can sometimes feel stifling. The dining room is very comfortable with several secluded nooks, offering much privacy. However it was very dark and was not exactly the place to wake up to your day.  The breakfast buffet is scattered throughout the room with several stations – one so well-hidden we didn’t discover it until the second morning. Eggs are prepared in the kitchen to order. Fruit, meats, traditional Japanese breakfast items, cereals, breads, juices, and hot prepared items make up the buffet. The most notable fact for us is that there was a separate gluten-free station set up at the bar with bread, a dedicated toaster, and cereal. We did inquire in advance if gluten-free bread was available, so I’m not sure if this is a standard feature, or created just for us. T We had some difficulties communicating with the

wait staff. My husband asked for a glass of ice each morning (to pour his juice over) and some mornings he got it and other mornings he got ice water. Eggs were not always cooked precisely to specifications, but were close enough that we were able to eat them. We all ordered tea one morning but only two of us got it.

Overall, we were extremely pleased with the hotel and any criticism I have is merely nit-picking (except for the smell in the room, which we should have complained about). The level of service and concern for guests here is sky high. The hotel feels quiet, comfortable, private, and personal. I highly recommend it if you will be visiting Kyoto.

 

 

On our recent trip to Asia we stayed exclusively at Ritz Carlton properties, which provided an excellent point of comparison between them. Kyoto was my favorite. One brief note about the Ritz hotels in general before I share details about the Kyoto property. We were traveling as a party of three (myself, my husband, and … Read more →

Do you have nightmare vacation stories? Places you’ve been where you would never return? Trips that went so bad you just wanted to get home as fast as possible? I have a few disasters in my past.

1. Aruba. This trip might have been our biggest disaster. We had a 5 day trip planned, which is essentially two days of travel and three days of vacation. Our plane had a mechanical malfunction and we spent our first night in Newark in February with no winter clothes. We finally arrived in Aruba to find it is absolutely true that Aruba is always windy. Hair blowing in your face, sand blowing into your mouth windy. It’s not exactly an idyllic lie-on-the-beach vacation. There is also absolutely NO authentic artisan shopping or crafts to be found anywhere on the island (it’s my passion). I asked everyone, and even went to a flea market and an art school. I came home empty handed for the first time ever. The island was flooded with American chain restaurants and shops and had no identity. The disaster was capped when my son got food poisoning the last day, from an “authentic” lunch. He was too sick for dinner, so we ended up missing out on reservations at restaurant positioned on a dock over the water at sunset. I didn’t care much for what I saw of the island and would never go back.

2. St. Michael’s, Maryland.  This is a very ancient disaster as it happened more than 20 years ago. Before we went, the AC in our car broke and we left a day late while waiting for it to be repaired. On the way there we spent one night in Philadelphia during which the fire alarm went off in the middle of the night. My husband and I stayed in a quaint B&B in St. Michael’s. How quaint was it? Well, there were no innkeepers. Keys were left on the hall table. Breakfast mysteriously was laid out when we arose and we never ever saw a single soul who worked there. I don’t know what we were supposed to do if our toilet got plugged or we had a question about the inn. The other problem was the room. It was a small room with an attached bath. How attached was the bath? So attached that the sink was at the foot of the bed and the toilet was just behind two western style swinging doors next to the bed. Howdy, pardner. The room had a view of the Chesapeake Bay which was impeded by a) a window air conditioner and b)the balcony outside the window that was filled with other guests all day and night. Thus our blinds were shut the entire time and w had no view. There were a handful of shops in town and the one I wanted to go in the most was never open any time we checked. We did enjoy some crabs and a little boat ride on the water but there wasn’t much to do there. We ended up driving to Ocean City and Virginia Beach, but found those locations to be very touristy. The trip was a huge disappointment in every way, from start to finish.

3. Oahu, Hawaii. I enjoyed some parts of this island very much, but it got off to a rocky start. The condo we rented that was supposed to be ocean front was located on a golf course and there were lizards running wild inside. We pulled up stakes and paid way too much for a condo at the Turtle Bay Resort next door, which ended up being simply gorgeous and wonderful (even if we had to eat dirt for a couple of months to pay for it). The Iolani Palace, one of the top things we wanted to see, was closed when it was taken over by rebelling Hawaiian nationalists for just the few days we were there.  We also found the traffic around Honolulu nearly intolerable, but loved the North Shore. My daughter got a UTI and wouldn’t go in the water. Not a complete disaster, but definitely not a dream vacation. It’s not an island I would return to.

4. Hong Kong and Japan. It was hellishly hot when we were in Hong Kong, making it very challenging to do much walking. My husband became suddenly very ill when we were there. We arranged for a doctor through our hotel who diagnosed him with food poisoning. We missed our last day in the city due to the illness and then somehow got him on a plane to Tokyo. He slept the entire way and barely made it to the hotel. I have no idea how he got through customs and immigration with a fever. He recovered slowly (my daughter and I went out and about without him for a few days) and then became ill again on the plane ride home (a serious resistant infection that is believed to have begun with the misdiagnosed food poisoning). I spent most of the trip in a panic about what to do to help him or terrified of eating anything for fear of getting sick myself. The anxiety levels were intense. I also didn’t like most of the food I could eat (being gluten intolerant made it very challenging) since raw fish and cow stomachs are not my cup of tea. Japan was beautiful and there were many things I enjoyed but it’s just not my list for a return visit after everything we went through.

Given how much we have traveled, we are lucky to have had so few true disasters. There have been minor glitches and problems on other trips:

– A broken boat motor in the Finger Lakes

– A houseboat with a propellor that fell off in the middle of a lake in Ontario’s Kawarthas. We waited nervously for a tow as our boat drifted closer and closer to rocks. We spent our first night in a marina instead of anchored by an island as planned. I also managed to have a swimmer’s ear infection during this water vacation and was told not to get it wet.

– Various illnesses, including UTIs, colds, flus, sprained ankles (inside the Tower of Pisa), and mono across the world.

– Carsickness adventures with both children and a husband prone to seasickness.

– An engine that blew in our van on the way home from the Finger Lakes. We had to turn the heat on in August to pull the heat off the engine to get it home.

– Having our car parked in on all sides at the Versailles parking lot and being trapped for an hour or so until someone left so we could get out. Couple this with a wait of about three hours to get into the palace and local police who merely laughed at our parked in predicament and it was a very unpleasant day.

– A hotel in Puerto Rico that was so far away from anything that we spent the entire time in the car

– A pent up emotional reaction to a family tragedy that finally hit me when we were away celebrating our anniversary and ruined a special night

What are your vacation disasters? Are there places you would never return?

Do you have nightmare vacation stories? Places you’ve been where you would never return? Trips that went so bad you just wanted to get home as fast as possible? I have a few disasters in my past. 1. Aruba. This trip might have been our biggest disaster. We had a 5 day trip planned, which … Read more →

While there are magnificent and amazing things about Japan, I find that after our recent trip there, the things I keep thinking about are the small, little things that somehow add up to a huge cultural difference.

1. Plastic food. People in Japan are obsessed with plastic food. Many, many restaurants display plastic models of their dishes in the front window. Here in the States, you know never to eat anywhere that does this or even has a menu with photos, but it’s not true in Japan. There are also plastic food stores. Because you never know when you might need some.

2. Payment rituals. When you buy something in a store you are supposed to place your credit card, using two hands, onto a small tray by the register. The clerk then picks it up and bows and you’re supposed to bow back. It’s then placed back in the tray (with two hands) for you to pick up. If you pay with cash, the same ritual ensues.

3. Shopping requires assistance. Many stores have one item of each type on display. If you would like to buy it, a sales clerk must get you another one. It’s not a problem though since there are sales people everywhere, swarming in to offer assistance. You do have to be sure to examine the item that you are given so that you can make sure it is not defective or different from the item you indicated you wanted.

4. Washcloths everywhere.  Every time you dine in Japan, you are first presented with a white, warm, wet washcloth. In many instances you do not have a napkin and keep this for the entire meal. Even when you ride the bullet train you are given a packaged wet wipe even if you do not purchase food.

5. Fear of shoes. Don’t even think about coming into a restaurant, temple, shrine, or inn with your shoes on. And when you take your shoes off to enter, you must do so very carefully. Your shoes must never, ever touch the wooden floor (or god forbid, tatami mat) that signals the beginning of the premises and your shoeless feet must never, ever touch the tile, stone, or flooring you entered on. All of this leads to a very complex balancing act where you must remove a shoe and get that foot onto the wooden floor or mat  and then remove the other shoe and then get that foot up too, without losing your balance and touching the actual contaminated floor. If you make a mistake or forget and attempt to enter with your shoes on, the usually reticent Japanese will shout at you. We even had some hotel employees remove their shoes before coming into our room to deliver laundry or ice.

6. Bathroom insanity. High tech Japanese toilets with music, sound effects, heated seats, water sprays and automatic flushes can be found everywhere, even in

train stations. Most of these toilets automatically begin making noise as soon as you sit on them, to disguise any sounds you might make. When you go to a restaurant or ryokan (traditional inn), there are toilet slippers you are expected to use in the bathrooms (since you have removed your shoes upon entry to the premises).  These are plastic leatherette slippers – the kind your great grandma used to wear. And yet public bathrooms have no soap, no towels, and no hand dryers.  Japanese women carry small washcloth sized towels (usually in crazy patterns) in their purses to dry their hands, but no one is using soap or hand sanitizer. Ever. Yet they are super concerned about your feet. There are many, many shops that just sell these small, brightly colored bathroom towels.

7. Get used to standing. Because we are fat, lazy, loud Americans, we are used to being able to plant our butts on a bench or chair often. In Japan there are almost no benches. We visited many parks and gardens where there was not a bench in sight. We had lunch one day at a busy department store food hall. They have no tables or benches. We were lucky to discover a few chairs in a corner so we could sit and eat. There are notes on the umbrella stands (see #8) warning people not to sit on them – because they are the ONLY possible place you might consider sitting.

8. Umbrella fear. When it rains in Japan, everyone carries a full-size umbrella. When the rain stops, they walk with it like a fun cane. No one – not a single person –

carries a fold up umbrella. Stores, restaurants, temples, and shrines have umbrella stands (some sporting signs warning people not to sit on them, because, as we saw, they collapse when a foolish tourist thinks they are a place to sit). They do not want your scary umbrella inside their restaurant or shop, even if it is folded up.

9. Overt politeness. While we certainly encountered a few people who were not friendly or were stone-faced and impenetrable, for the most part, the people we encountered were friendly and unfailingly courteous. I have never been anywhere before where everyone was so very formal and so very careful with their manners. It made me feel like a boorish American. We had a driver pick us up on time and nearly scrape the floor bowing as he apologized over and over for keeping us waiting. People who work in restaurants and shops are friendly and helpful and thank you profusely over and over while bowing many times. Even the gentlemen (and they were gentlemen) who worked in the ticket booths in the subways were professional, courteous, helpful and polite (I couldn’t help but compare them to subway workers in NYC – but there is no comparison). The train conductors who came through the cars to take your tickets would get to the end of the car, turn, and bow to the car before exiting.

10. Wrapping is an art. When you buy something in a shop in the States, it’s usually chucked into a plastic bag and handed to you. When you buy something in Japan, plan to stand there for hours and wait while it is packaged. Price tags are removed. Items are wrapped in tissue paper, foam paper, bubble wrap and usually boxed and then wrapped in wrapping paper. I even had one item wrapped in tissue, foam, bubble wrap, then boxed the then wrapped in bubble wrap again. Your item is then placed in a bag and the bag is sealed shut with a sticker or colorful tape. If it is raining, the bag is then covered with a special rain cover. Some stores provide seating so you can sit and wait while you purchase is packaged, because it is a lengthy and complex process.

11. Buttoned up, until they’re not. When you walk through a train station during rush hour, everyone around you is wearing black, blue, and white. There is no other color on anybody in sight. The women are very buttoned up in high necked blouses and prim suits and dresses. You could hear a pin drop in the station even as the entire place is crawling with people. It’s like being in the middle of worker ants. Each is steadfastedly and silently intent on its own journey. No one speaks. No one laughs. No one makes any noise. The only sound is the rhythmic movement of feet. It’s eerie. But on the weekend these same people don crazy costumes and bright gaudy, weird clothes to go out and about. It’s almost like they have to rebel on the weekends against the very serious and straight-laced working culture .

 

While there are magnificent and amazing things about Japan, I find that after our recent trip there, the things I keep thinking about are the small, little things that somehow add up to a huge cultural difference. 1. Plastic food. People in Japan are obsessed with plastic food. Many, many restaurants display plastic models of … Read more →

A recent fall getaway to the Adirondacks allowed me to scope out the best places to shop. No outlet malls on my list (If you want ’em, they’re in Lake George)! Here are my top 5 places to visit to find great artisan, antique and unique local finds.

1. Keene and Keene Valley. These two little towns don’t seem to be worth stopping in and in fact we drove through them twice before I insisted we put the brakes on and check it out. You will want to go in The Birch Store, which is next to the Noon Mark Diner. Then head a tiny bit north and pop into Dartbrook Rustic Goods for a true Adirondack experience. I bought an amazing artisan-crafted hemlock basket here. Within walking distance is a soap shop and a few other shops to pop into. I didn’t notice most as we drove past but once I got out and walked, there were a lot of places to go. ADK Market  and Rivermede Market are also worth a stop. We bought some truly amazing Nettle Meadow Cheese here which made nearby. Keene Valley is also a beautiful spot for photos. There is a dilapidated barn in a field that is probably the most photographed spot in town. There

are also lots of little turn offs for creeks that are very picturesque.

2. Bolton Landing I was taken by surprise by Bolton Landing. The town of Lake George is a super tacky tourist town with nothing I wanted to buy. 15 minutes down the road, Bolton Landing surprised me. There are tons of fun little shops all packed together in the town center on Lakeshore Drive. I really enjoyed Trees, a book and gift shop. Be sure to stop in at Lakeview Trading, Indian Teepee Gifts (kind of touristy, but I checked it out), Serendipity Boutique, Adirondack Trails, and Lakeview Antiques, a tiny little shop set at the end of a driveway inside an old garage. It’s bigger than it looks and we bought a couple of things in here.

3. Saranac Lake. Saranac Lake is about a 10 minute drive from Lake Placid, so it’s definitely easy to add it to your itinerary. At first glance, there’s not much here, but we found

two galleries worth a stop. Adirondack Artist’s Guild  is a cooperative gallery and we bought an original watercolor (not cheap) as well as some amazing pottery decorated with driftwood from the lake (cheap). Northwind Fine Arts is the other gallery in town.

4. Lake Placid. There is plenty of shopping to be done in Lake Placid. Main Street is very walkable, once you find a parking spot (there was plenty of parking on the fall weekend we visited, but it clearly becomes crazy in the summer). We stopped in at Saratoga Olive Oil. If you’ve been in a shop that sells a variety of flavored oils and vinegars this will be nothing new to you, but we thought it was fun. They have other locations, including one in Saratoga Springs. Other shops in town worth a stop include Lake Placid Christmas, , Fanfare, The Haus on Mirror Lake, The Glass Blowing Shop, and The Adirondack Trading Company. We really like the Adirondack Popcorn Company which has

a lot of very thoughtful and nicely made flavored popcorns and caramel corns. Buy some of their locally themed flavors like Adirondack Jack or Firestarter. Outside of town, we also stopped at The Adirondack Store and the antique shop next door where I bought a nice Fire King Jadeite bowl for a good price. If you’re in the market for an Adirondack chair, you’ll find several furniture shops in town.

5. Glenwood Manor in Queensbury.  If you’re visiting Saratoga Springs or Lake George, this is within 20 minutes and is worth a drive. I kind of lost my mind in this antique store. It’s three floors of a huge, huge old house and

each room is a different dealer. There is simply tons and tons of wonderful old things to look at and there is also one room that is a gift shop with new items.  They say the third floor is haunted, which simply adds to the appeal. I left with a couple boxes of finds, at very good prices.

6. Oscar’s Smokehouse. I was skeptical about Oscar’s Smokehouse which is located in Warrensburg, very near Lake George. If you think you’ve heard of Warrensburg, it’s because they have the world’s largest garage sale every fall and we happened to be in town for it. My advice is to skip the garage sale unless you want to spend at least an entire day combing through piles of everyone’s junk. We were told that lots of dealers come and set up booths here but I didn’t seen anything worth stopping for.  Instead, head into Oscar’s. Rachel Ray is from this area and touts Oscar’s. She’s dead on. It’s basically a butcher shop with cases of smoked everything you can imagine, all smoked locally. I would be more excited if the meats were organic, but I made an exception. You’ll want to get bacon of course, but we also brought home smoked turkey, chicken, pheasant, pork chops, mozzarella, brie, and cheddar. We also bought some sausages (not smoked) which were all wonderful. The counter staff is a bit rough and tumble and we got some attitude when we asked about gluten (“In my day we didn’t have gluten, we just had cholesterol.”). Oscar also lets you order from their web site, so you don’t have to come in person with your cooler like we did! So far we’ve enjoyed the turkey, pheasant, sausage and cheese and it is all excellent with a very delicate smoke flavor. Nettle Meadow Cheese is located about 10 minutes away from Oscar’s so that is something else to add to your itinerary.

A recent fall getaway to the Adirondacks allowed me to scope out the best places to shop. No outlet malls on my list (If you want ’em, they’re in Lake George)! Here are my top 5 places to visit to find great artisan, antique and unique local finds. 1. Keene and Keene Valley. These two … Read more →

When we planned a trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota, I was not eagerly anticipating it. It turned out to be a fantastic place to vacation with excellent shopping (my thing!), awe-inspiring monuments, and incredibly nature. Read all about the great things to do in my piece for GoGirlfriend.

When we planned a trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota, I was not eagerly anticipating it. It turned out to be a fantastic place to vacation with excellent shopping (my thing!), awe-inspiring monuments, and incredibly nature. Read all about the great things to do in my piece for GoGirlfriend.

Please welcome my friend Donna Hull, who blogs at My Itchy Travel Feet and has just published an ebook called New Mexico Backroads Adventure. I eagerly bought and read this ebook since we’ve been to NM and plan to go again. It’s the perfect little guide for a weekend trip and Donna tells you where to stay, where to eat, what to see and how to get there. It’s a must-have. Today Donna is sharing some information about 5 places to see in NM beyond Santa Fe, which is where we visited when we went.

Five New Mexico Destinations Beyond Santa Fe 

What could be better than a fall road trip to Santa Fe, New Mexico? There’s a nip in the air as you explore the shops and restaurants bordering The Plaza, browse the art galleries on Canyon Road or admire the paintings in the Georgia

O’Keeffe Museum.

After experiencing Santa Fe’s history, architecture and art, I recommend extending your trip to more off-the-beaten-path destinations in New Mexico, where history ad culture are combined with adventure.

Rio Grande Gorge Bridge

One of the nation’s highest suspension bridges is located near Taos. Sidewalks lead to a viewing platform where visitors look over the rail to the Rio Grande River some 650 feet below. During the tourist season, artists—many of them Native American—set up near the bridge to sell handcrafted items.

El Morro National Monument

Through the years, when visitors stopped to refresh themselves near the limestone outcropping of El Morro National Monument, located near Grants, they left their mark on the walls. While modern visitors are not allowed to add to history’s graffiti, they can observe petroglyphs from ancient travelers, inscriptions left by Spanish conquistadors and messages from adventurous explorers traveling the West. If you’re looking for more of an adventure, climb the trail to the top of Mesa Rock to explore an ancient pueblo.

El Malpais National Monument

The lava flows and cinder cones of El Malpais National Monument offer dramatic scenery worthy of a hike or two. According to the National Park Service: “This stark landscape preserves one of the best continuous geologic records of volcanism on the planet. El Malpais is also located near Grants and is easily added to a road trip that includes El Morro National Monument.

Vietnam Veterans National Memorial State Park

Before the Vietnam Memorial in Washington D.C. was even a drawing on paper, Dr. Victor Westfall had erected a chapel overlooking the peaceful Moreno Valley to honor his son, David, a 1986 casualty of the Vietnam War. Located near the popular resort, Angle Fire, the memorial includes a visitor’s center where a moving HBO documentary, Dear America, Letters Home From Vietnam, depicts scenes from the Vietnam era as actors read letters written by soldiers, friends and parents. It’s a moving stop on your New Mexico tour.

Santuario de Chimayó on the High Road to Taos

There’s plenty of history and culture to be found on the High Road to Taos (a route that travels between Santa Fe and Taos). And Santuario de Chimayó is one of the most interesting. According to legend, a miracle occurred here around 200 years ago. Since then, pilgrims have come to the church to be healed, scooping a spoonful of sacred dirt into vials to take home with them. If a healing occurs, the pilgrim returns to the church and leaves braces, crutches or rosaries behind as a show of thanks. While you’re here, stop in at one of the weaving shops to purchase an exquisite Chimayó weaving to take home along with your spoonful of sacred dirt.

As you can see, New Mexico is brimming with off-the-beaten-path culture and history just a few miles beyond Santa Fe. Which adventure will you choose?

Donna L. Hull writes about active travel for baby boomers at My Itchy Travel Feet, The Baby Boomer’s Guide to Travel. Read more about off-the-beaten-path travel to New Mexico in her latest book: New Mexico Backroads Weekend Adventure.

 

Please welcome my friend Donna Hull, who blogs at My Itchy Travel Feet and has just published an ebook called New Mexico Backroads Adventure. I eagerly bought and read this ebook since we’ve been to NM and plan to go again. It’s the perfect little guide for a weekend trip and Donna tells you where to … Read more →

I’m a little stunned to return from our stay at the Fairmont Southampton in Bermuda and discover there is no daily free breakfast, afternoon tea, appetizer, and dessert being set out for me at home. There’s no private concierge down the hall. No heated outdoor pool and restaurant on the water just down the hill. No one is turning down my bed for

me. Just a few days of special treatment on the Gold private concierge floor and I’m completely spoiled.

Choosing the Fairmont

We went to Bermuda for our 25th anniversary. We debated several hotels, but ultimately chose the Fairmont Southampton because of its location and amenities and it’s ability to cater to our dietary needs. The hotel is situated on a hill between the ocean and the harbor on a fairly narrow strip of land. You can see the gorgeous pink building from far out on the water.  The hotel was built in the 70s, but the lobby has an old world English feel to it with lots of dark wood, Oriental rugs, huge staircases, and a sense of history. The interior is extremely spacious with lots of nooks and crannies for sitting. There is a variety of shops on two different levels (and these were very well-stocked shops, with clothing, jewelry, and high quality gifts and art).

Gold Concierge Floor

Since our airfare was free using Jetblue points, we splurged on our hotel room. June is a busy season in Bermuda (lots and lots of weddings, including a very large Indian wedding the first night we were there and several brides spotted throughout our stay) so the only room available at the Fairmont Southampton was on the Gold floor.  The Gold floor offers a private concierge on the floor and some wonderful amenities.  Bottled water was replenished in our room daily and we had twice daily maid service.

Also included was an amazing hospitality center. There was a stocked bar that is self-serve. Non-alcoholic drinks were free. Alcohol was on the honor system, with little receipts to fill out if you helped yourself. Snacks were available all day (nuts and dried fruit).  A free continental breakfast was also provided free. This included beverages, pastries and two hot items (we did not

partake and instead chose to splurge on the full buffet breakfast downstairs).  The hospitality center offered afternoon tea with sandwiches and pastries and sweets each afternoon. Then an early evening appetizer selection was offered with one plated hors d’oeuvre and cheeses, fruits, vegetables, dip, and chips. And just because you would want to really get your money’s worth, dessert was provided mid-evening as well.

Both my husband and myself are gluten intolerant and

one of the reasons we chose the Fairmont was because they have a lifestyle cuisine program, ensuring that guests with any type of diet can be catered to. We explained our dietary needs when making the reservation. When we checked in, the concierge noted it and said that at every food service in the hospitality center, there would be gluten free offerings for us (at no charge). And indeed there were. We had a bit of  a rocky start the first day and waited half an hour for the gluten-free selections to come up from the

main kitchen, but after that the staff knew us and always had gluten-free selections kept just for us in their little behind the scenes kitchen. It was quite impressive  – they even had gluten-free scones.

The Room

Our room was beautiful and comfortable, with a king-size bed, sitting area, desk, bar, flat screen tv, double sinks, walk in closet, and an amazing balcony with a table and chairs that allowed us to soak up the view

from the 6th floor. Truly stunning and luxurious. The shower and toilet area felt a little dated and cramped. They could definitely do with some renovations there. Something other than a small standard hotel tub with shower curtain would be welcome. A walk-in shower with glass doors (or at least something that was not cramped and dark) would really complete the picture of luxury. We explored all of the hotel during our stay (and there is a lot to see!).  Although the hotel is not directly on the water (no crashing waves outside your window), it does have a lovely ocean view (or a harbor view from the other side). There are also a few rooms that have a mostly land view that includes the lighthouse.

Location Is Everything

Because of its location, you can go to the beach or the harbor by hopping on a hotel-run shuttle. I was a bit leery about having to ride a shuttle to the beach. It’s not far at all (maybe a 4 minute ride at most) but the hill is very steep and the road has switchbacks, so walking would be arduous and dangerous. We never waited more than 5 minutes for a shuttle. The shuttles are comfortable and air conditioned. Actually, I found I rather liked the door-to-door service of a shuttle – none of this hauling your beach bag down stairs and paths to get to the beach. The shuttle takes you directly there.

The Beach

The

private beach has many lounge chairs, even some with built-in canopies. There is a beach bar/snack bar (where apparently straws are not available – this made my traditional virgin strawberry daiquiri a little hard to consume) and a restaurant (the Ocean Club) at the beach. Towels are given out in stacks – no negotiating to get just one more as I’ve experienced at other resorts. You are given at least two per person and no one is scrutinizing how many you have and how many you return. The private beach was somewhat well-maintained. There were the usual issues with people claiming chairs for the day by leaving a single towel and no one seemed able to pick up their own garbage. The chairs tended to be lined up in rows at least three or four chairs deep, which meant you couldn’t be right by the water or away from the crowds. The brilliant part about this beach though is that if you don’t want to line up on the sand like sardines in a can, there is a path to Horseshoe Bay, which is the public beach next door. It is at least 1/4 mile crescent of perfect sand with lots of space. And if you keep walking, you’ll discover one hidden

cove after another – small private beaches that are yours for the taking. We enjoyed walking to the public beach and exploring the secret beaches with the dramatic scenery. Tennis courts are also located next to the beach and there was always a court available.

The Harbor

Take the shuttle in the opposite direction from the hotel and you come down to the harbor. Here there is the hotel’s most formal restaurant, The Waterlot (a steakhouse, which had excellent, over-the-top attentive service and amazing food), an outdoor waterfront bar, and a free ferry. Several times a day the ferry that is just for hotel guests shuttles across the harbor (it’s worth it for the views alone and it’s only about a 30 minute ride) to the sister property, the Fairmont Hamilton Princess. This hotel is located on the edge of  the main city of Hamilton and it’s a short walk to shops and restaurants and the city’s main harbor. Hotel guests can use the restaurants and facilities at either property.

We took the shuttle down to the harbor one evening for dinner and I was pleased to see they had a security guard at the shuttle stop, which was a bit dark and isolated.  The guard also assists guests in crossing the road to the ferry stop or restaurant.

The Pool

If you’d like to spend some time by the pool, there is a very large outdoor heated pool just off the lobby. The pool deck was spacious and comfortable and in addition to the usual loungers, they had some cute wicker cabana chairs that were almost like a little bed. This pool closes at 6:30 each evening but guests are then welcome to use the spa pool. One night the pool closed at 5 (it needed to be cleaned we were told) so they opened the spa pool earlier and we went and enjoyed it completely alone. A few afternoons later they closed half of the outdoor pool because there was a meeting on the balcony above it. This left only the shallow end of the pool and it was filled with splashing kids. We went to the spa and explained the situation and they let us in there early again. The spa pool is indoors but has lots of windows and a waterfall. It was virtually empty each time we visited. Two outdoor hot tubs were also available here. It was tranquil and lovely.

Service

Overall we were very pleased with the service at the hotel. Of particular note is the front door staff who go out of their way to be friendly, engaging, and convivial. They were hands down the best I have ever encountered. The

doormen always spoke to us and commented on where we were going and asked how our outing was when we returned. The baggage service was also excellent – prompt and friendly. There were always taxis waiting. The food service staff at the hospitality center went out of their way to be accommodating and thoughtful to us. The wait staff at the hotel restaurants were excellent. We dined at the Ocean Club (where there were some wonderful fish selections and lovely outdoor dining overlooking the beach) and at the Waterlot, as well as having the breakfast buffet at Windows each morning (the buffet was excellent with a large selection and attentive service). Everyone understood our needs as gluten-free diners and were very helpful to us. The Waterlot even offered us a special dessert and had the staff sign a card for us when they discovered it was our anniversary. No tipping

is required with the hotel staff (and gratuities are automatically included on restaurant bills). The bellman who brought our bags walked away when he saw my husband reach into his pocket. Doormen did not expect a tip.

Problems

The criticisms I have are minuscule. When we made our reservations, the hotel suggested we pay for a private shuttle to bring us to the hotel. They said it was less expensive than a taxi (and it was). We were led to believe it was run by the hotel and they told us someone would greet us with a sign with our name on it. We emerged from the airport to see lots of signs, but none with our name. We waited. Nothing. We then called the hotel and were put on hold. Eventually we asked a gentleman at a car service stand and apparently our reservation was with them. Some better instructions would have saved us about half an hour of confusion.

The hotel brought us a fruit bowl for our anniversary. It contained two strawberries, two oranges, and an apple. I opened it to discover the strawberries were rotten and molding. As previously mentioned, we had some trouble getting the gluten-free tea the first day, but things ran smoothly there after that. One morning when we went to the buffet breakfast, when we gave our room number, the hostess became a bit snide and said “Oh, the 600 floor [the gold floor]. Nice of you to come down and eat with the little people.” We didn’t appreciate that at all (we are the little people splurging on a special occasion!). For the most part we found the private concierge staff to be accommodating, however there were one or two women who were always very busy and slightly unfriendly. One morning someone else’s bill was slipped under our door by mistake. When we checked in, we were asked which newspaper summary we would like left at our door each morning. We received it only one day. The walls were a bit thin on our room and the first night we listened to the man next door throwing up and the next night listened to his diatribe on immigration.

The problems were tiny though, and overall, this was one of the most wonderful stays we have had anywhere. I felt pampered and well-cared for at this hotel and we were comfortable and relaxed nearly the entire time. The only thing I would wish for is being closer to the ocean so I could hear it from my room. Other

than that, it was a nearly perfect stay. I would stay here again and again!

I’m a little stunned to return from our stay at the Fairmont Southampton in Bermuda and discover there is no daily free breakfast, afternoon tea, appetizer, and dessert being set out for me at home. There’s no private concierge down the hall. No heated outdoor pool and restaurant on the water just down the hill. … Read more →

I recently stumbled on this quick little online piece about the 10 Most Disappointing Travel Destinations.  I started to write a Facebook post about it but realized I had far too much to say. First, I agree that some destinations are overrated, but travel is always what you make of it.  I think that when you visit a place that has a lot of hype, your job is to find the things that appeal to you. I almost always have a good sense of what I’m going to like about a destination before I go. The key is to listen to your instincts and follow your interests. That being said, I can’t help but comment on some of the destinations in this piece:

Niagara Falls, NY. Yeah, I’m all over this one. I live in Buffalo and the Falls are in our backyard. While it’s true that you can get better panoramic views of the Falls from Canada, there are things you can do on the American side that aren’t available in Canada. The Cave of the Winds gets you as close to the Falls as possible – almost underneath it. You ride an elevator down to the base of the Falls then walk across stairs and platforms where you are absolutely doused by water coming over the brink. You look up and see the Falls coming down. It is absolutely spectacular. Also on the American side there is a platform that takes you out over the gorge with an amazing view. The American side is less crowded and you can actually find a place to park. So I don’t agree that this is overrated. If you go, you’ll want to experience the Falls from both sides and you’ll realize they are completely different, but equally fun.

Temple Bar, Dublin. I didn’t find this to be overrated because it is what it’s advertised: a bunch of bars. There are some street performers which make it fun and you can see the Halfpenny Bridge. If you’re in the city at night, it’s worth a stroll just to see it. If you’re expecting something else, you will be disappointed.

Nassau, Bahamas.  Paradise Island, usually known as Atlantis, is a giant tourist trap. But it’s unfair to lump the entire area together. We stayed outside of Nassau on Telegraph Beach and it was simply gorgeous and very quiet.  Get outside the man-made sites and see the rest of this beautiful island. Go to the Fish Fry, see the marching flamingos, drive around and see the other beaches. We did spend an afternoon at Atlantis where we saw the aquariums, had lunch and did some shopping. It was fine for a few hours, but not a place I would want to stay.

Liberty Island, NY. We loved visiting Liberty Island. Getting up close and personal with the Statue of Liberty was awe-inspiring and being able to go inside the statue was something we will never forget. Don’t go in the middle of the summer on a weekend. We went on a fall weekend and the lines were not bad at all. The ferry ride there is fun. Be sure to go to Ellis Island as well, a place I could have spent hours in, where you will learn all about the immigrants who entered our country through this island. I don’t think there is anything overrated about Liberty Island. In fact, it’s a must-see on my list.

Walt Disney World, FL. I hated it here. Passionately. But I have friends who love to go because their kids are happy and the parents can just relax by the pool and not worry. We had fun on a couple of rides but the lines were outrageous. Epcot did not excite us, although we had a fun meal at a Moroccan restaurant. I knew going in I was going to hate it, but we went because we really believed our kids deserved to go. It’s almost a rite of passage in this country.

Las Vegas, NV. I think the key to Vegas is to set your expectations and plan your trip. We don’t drink or gamble, but enjoyed our visit. Our hotel had a lazy river the kids loved. We saw the Mac King magic show which was just perfect for families. We saw the tigers and the dolphins and looked at the fountains and took a gondola ride. We drove by the Pawn Stars shop. My husband and son went to a pinball museum. We had some fantastic food off the Strip. It was one of those places that I thoroughly enjoyed, but would probably never go back to.  I didn’t find it to be overrated because I found the things our family would enjoy and did those. My biggest complaint was that EVERYTHING smells like cigarette smoke. You leave Vegas and realize you absolutely stink because it is on you and all of your clothes.

I haven’t been to the other places on this list. A Facebook friend of mine commented that she would add Times Square to this list. I admit I am confused by Times Square. There is nothing to actually do there. It’s fun to walk through it at night once but I couldn’t imagine planning it as a the highlight of my trip.  I found Florence, Italy to be overrated (and one of my friends will vehemently disagree!). I thought it was an ugly city with not a lot to do. Hilton Head, SC was overrated in our view. The beaches were great (except for the jellyfish which meant we got stung then never went in again).  Because of the jellyfish, the pool was wall to wall people. There was nothing to do on that island at all – a family destination with absolutely no activities. We ended up driving into Savannah almost daily.

So now it’s your turn. Tell me what you thought was overrated as a destination.

I recently stumbled on this quick little online piece about the 10 Most Disappointing Travel Destinations.  I started to write a Facebook post about it but realized I had far too much to say. First, I agree that some destinations are overrated, but travel is always what you make of it.  I think that when … Read more →

My daughter and I recently enjoyed a girls’ getaway to St. Thomas and after years of traveling to the Caribbean for spring breaks, it wins my favorite island award. Here are 7 reasons why you should consider St. Thomas for your next spring getaway.

1. Comfortably Foreign. While I love the Caribbean, you usually are traveling to another country where there is some kind of language barrier. But St. Thomas is part of the USVI, so everyone you meet speaks English. You pay with the US dollar. You will also find some shops, like Walgreens and KMart, that are American chains. This comfort factor is balanced against the indubitably Caribbean landscape of lush beaches, many hills, tropical vegetation, pictureaque half-rundown architecture, lilting accents, hot sun, and fusion cuisine. All the thrills of a foreign country within a US territory.

2. Beaches. We’ve been to countless Caribbean beaches, but St. Thomas might have the very best. While the beach at Frenchman’s Reef at our hotel was nice, Magens Bay was

stunning. The water was crystal clear, yet appeared turquoise from a distance. The sand was soft. There was shade. The beach was long enough to walk. Chairs, kayaks, and paddle boards are available for rent. The only downside was the sheer volume of cruise ship visitors. To avoid the cruise crowds, try Honeymoon Beach which has no amenities,

but is just as nice.

3. Shopping. St. Thomas is often described as having the best shopping in the Caribbean and I have to agree. My perspective is slightly different however. The island is often lauded for shopping because of the overwhelming number of jewelry stores. I’m not in the Caribbean to buy a diamond I could buy at home (assuming a diamond was in my budget!). I’m constantly on the hunt for beautiful, unique, artisan-made, locally-created items and St. Thomas was a treasure trove. Don’t miss the St. Thomas Native Arts and

Crafts Cooperative, located on corner directly across from the Vendor’s Plaza (your typical Caribbean grouping of tents selling knock-off goods and made in Malaysia trinkets). You will also find a lovely pocket of shops not to miss in Palm Passage, one of the alleys that runs between Main Street and the waterfront. There are many artisans and artists in the USVI that sell their work on St. Thomas and there is a lot to choose from.

4. Attitude. One quirk of the Caribbean is that every island has its own personality, and each group of islanders is different. Some people are known for being unfriendly or haughty. Other islands are welcoming. St. Thomas is the friendliest island we’ve visited to date. We were never treated rudely and everyone we spoke to wore a smile and took the time to really talk to

us. People are still on island time here, so expect everyone to move slowly.

5. Food. While I still would rate Grand Case, St. Martin as the best Caribbean town for dining, St. Thomas had excellent dining across the island. Havana Blue topped our list of favorites and for fun and funky you can’t beat Duffy’s Love Shack. I also give high marks due to the prevalence of beachfront dining. This can be hard to come by on some islands, but in St. Thomas we dined at tables a few feet the beach three different nights.

6. Coral World. This tiny little aquarium doesn’t rival the dolphin experiences you can have at Paradise Island in the Bahamas, but it offers some fun and different sea life experiences: swimming with sea turtles, swimming with sharks, swimming or interacting with sea lions, swimming with sting rays, and SNUBA.

7. Beautiful Views. While driving up and over the hills in St. Thomas can take some getting used to (particularly since you are driving on the left side of the road), those same hills offer stupendous views, with specific lookout points. We took some stunning photos from Paradise Point, and there are also great views to be had Mountain Top. Drive to either or take the tramway to Paradise Point.

 

 

My daughter and I recently enjoyed a girls’ getaway to St. Thomas and after years of traveling to the Caribbean for spring breaks, it wins my favorite island award. Here are 7 reasons why you should consider St. Thomas for your next spring getaway. 1. Comfortably Foreign. While I love the Caribbean, you usually are … Read more →