When we planned a trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota, I was not eagerly anticipating it. It turned out to be a fantastic place to vacation with excellent shopping (my thing!), awe-inspiring monuments, and incredibly nature. Read all about the great things to do in my piece for GoGirlfriend.

When we planned a trip to the Black Hills of South Dakota, I was not eagerly anticipating it. It turned out to be a fantastic place to vacation with excellent shopping (my thing!), awe-inspiring monuments, and incredibly nature. Read all about the great things to do in my piece for GoGirlfriend.

Please welcome my friend Donna Hull, who blogs at My Itchy Travel Feet and has just published an ebook called New Mexico Backroads Adventure. I eagerly bought and read this ebook since we’ve been to NM and plan to go again. It’s the perfect little guide for a weekend trip and Donna tells you where to stay, where to eat, what to see and how to get there. It’s a must-have. Today Donna is sharing some information about 5 places to see in NM beyond Santa Fe, which is where we visited when we went.

Five New Mexico Destinations Beyond Santa Fe 

What could be better than a fall road trip to Santa Fe, New Mexico? There’s a nip in the air as you explore the shops and restaurants bordering The Plaza, browse the art galleries on Canyon Road or admire the paintings in the Georgia

O’Keeffe Museum.

After experiencing Santa Fe’s history, architecture and art, I recommend extending your trip to more off-the-beaten-path destinations in New Mexico, where history ad culture are combined with adventure.

Rio Grande Gorge Bridge

One of the nation’s highest suspension bridges is located near Taos. Sidewalks lead to a viewing platform where visitors look over the rail to the Rio Grande River some 650 feet below. During the tourist season, artists—many of them Native American—set up near the bridge to sell handcrafted items.

El Morro National Monument

Through the years, when visitors stopped to refresh themselves near the limestone outcropping of El Morro National Monument, located near Grants, they left their mark on the walls. While modern visitors are not allowed to add to history’s graffiti, they can observe petroglyphs from ancient travelers, inscriptions left by Spanish conquistadors and messages from adventurous explorers traveling the West. If you’re looking for more of an adventure, climb the trail to the top of Mesa Rock to explore an ancient pueblo.

El Malpais National Monument

The lava flows and cinder cones of El Malpais National Monument offer dramatic scenery worthy of a hike or two. According to the National Park Service: “This stark landscape preserves one of the best continuous geologic records of volcanism on the planet. El Malpais is also located near Grants and is easily added to a road trip that includes El Morro National Monument.

Vietnam Veterans National Memorial State Park

Before the Vietnam Memorial in Washington D.C. was even a drawing on paper, Dr. Victor Westfall had erected a chapel overlooking the peaceful Moreno Valley to honor his son, David, a 1986 casualty of the Vietnam War. Located near the popular resort, Angle Fire, the memorial includes a visitor’s center where a moving HBO documentary, Dear America, Letters Home From Vietnam, depicts scenes from the Vietnam era as actors read letters written by soldiers, friends and parents. It’s a moving stop on your New Mexico tour.

Santuario de Chimayó on the High Road to Taos

There’s plenty of history and culture to be found on the High Road to Taos (a route that travels between Santa Fe and Taos). And Santuario de Chimayó is one of the most interesting. According to legend, a miracle occurred here around 200 years ago. Since then, pilgrims have come to the church to be healed, scooping a spoonful of sacred dirt into vials to take home with them. If a healing occurs, the pilgrim returns to the church and leaves braces, crutches or rosaries behind as a show of thanks. While you’re here, stop in at one of the weaving shops to purchase an exquisite Chimayó weaving to take home along with your spoonful of sacred dirt.

As you can see, New Mexico is brimming with off-the-beaten-path culture and history just a few miles beyond Santa Fe. Which adventure will you choose?

Donna L. Hull writes about active travel for baby boomers at My Itchy Travel Feet, The Baby Boomer’s Guide to Travel. Read more about off-the-beaten-path travel to New Mexico in her latest book: New Mexico Backroads Weekend Adventure.

 

Please welcome my friend Donna Hull, who blogs at My Itchy Travel Feet and has just published an ebook called New Mexico Backroads Adventure. I eagerly bought and read this ebook since we’ve been to NM and plan to go again. It’s the perfect little guide for a weekend trip and Donna tells you where to … Read more →

Today I’m announcing the publication of my Kindle book, The Gluten-Free Guide to Travel. To the point (28 pp) and nicely priced, this is a complete guide to traveling on a gluten-free diet, whether you are celiac, gluten intolerant, or simply choose not to eat gluten. Based on my travels in the US and abroad, I’m offering tips on how to find great gluten-free meals, what to pack, how to get help finding food, how to communicate your diet in other countries, and tips about things such as cruises, tours, airplane food, and road trips.  I also discuss how to manage traveling with gluten eaters. Traveling gluten-free is easier than ever before, so it’s time to read this ebook and hit the road!

Today I’m announcing the publication of my Kindle book, The Gluten-Free Guide to Travel. To the point (28 pp) and nicely priced, this is a complete guide to traveling on a gluten-free diet, whether you are celiac, gluten intolerant, or simply choose not to eat gluten. Based on my travels in the US and abroad, … Read more →

I’m a little stunned to return from our stay at the Fairmont Southampton in Bermuda and discover there is no daily free breakfast, afternoon tea, appetizer, and dessert being set out for me at home. There’s no private concierge down the hall. No heated outdoor pool and restaurant on the water just down the hill. No one is turning down my bed for

me. Just a few days of special treatment on the Gold private concierge floor and I’m completely spoiled.

Choosing the Fairmont

We went to Bermuda for our 25th anniversary. We debated several hotels, but ultimately chose the Fairmont Southampton because of its location and amenities and it’s ability to cater to our dietary needs. The hotel is situated on a hill between the ocean and the harbor on a fairly narrow strip of land. You can see the gorgeous pink building from far out on the water.  The hotel was built in the 70s, but the lobby has an old world English feel to it with lots of dark wood, Oriental rugs, huge staircases, and a sense of history. The interior is extremely spacious with lots of nooks and crannies for sitting. There is a variety of shops on two different levels (and these were very well-stocked shops, with clothing, jewelry, and high quality gifts and art).

Gold Concierge Floor

Since our airfare was free using Jetblue points, we splurged on our hotel room. June is a busy season in Bermuda (lots and lots of weddings, including a very large Indian wedding the first night we were there and several brides spotted throughout our stay) so the only room available at the Fairmont Southampton was on the Gold floor.  The Gold floor offers a private concierge on the floor and some wonderful amenities.  Bottled water was replenished in our room daily and we had twice daily maid service.

Also included was an amazing hospitality center. There was a stocked bar that is self-serve. Non-alcoholic drinks were free. Alcohol was on the honor system, with little receipts to fill out if you helped yourself. Snacks were available all day (nuts and dried fruit).  A free continental breakfast was also provided free. This included beverages, pastries and two hot items (we did not

partake and instead chose to splurge on the full buffet breakfast downstairs).  The hospitality center offered afternoon tea with sandwiches and pastries and sweets each afternoon. Then an early evening appetizer selection was offered with one plated hors d’oeuvre and cheeses, fruits, vegetables, dip, and chips. And just because you would want to really get your money’s worth, dessert was provided mid-evening as well.

Both my husband and myself are gluten intolerant and

one of the reasons we chose the Fairmont was because they have a lifestyle cuisine program, ensuring that guests with any type of diet can be catered to. We explained our dietary needs when making the reservation. When we checked in, the concierge noted it and said that at every food service in the hospitality center, there would be gluten free offerings for us (at no charge). And indeed there were. We had a bit of  a rocky start the first day and waited half an hour for the gluten-free selections to come up from the

main kitchen, but after that the staff knew us and always had gluten-free selections kept just for us in their little behind the scenes kitchen. It was quite impressive  – they even had gluten-free scones.

The Room

Our room was beautiful and comfortable, with a king-size bed, sitting area, desk, bar, flat screen tv, double sinks, walk in closet, and an amazing balcony with a table and chairs that allowed us to soak up the view

from the 6th floor. Truly stunning and luxurious. The shower and toilet area felt a little dated and cramped. They could definitely do with some renovations there. Something other than a small standard hotel tub with shower curtain would be welcome. A walk-in shower with glass doors (or at least something that was not cramped and dark) would really complete the picture of luxury. We explored all of the hotel during our stay (and there is a lot to see!).  Although the hotel is not directly on the water (no crashing waves outside your window), it does have a lovely ocean view (or a harbor view from the other side). There are also a few rooms that have a mostly land view that includes the lighthouse.

Location Is Everything

Because of its location, you can go to the beach or the harbor by hopping on a hotel-run shuttle. I was a bit leery about having to ride a shuttle to the beach. It’s not far at all (maybe a 4 minute ride at most) but the hill is very steep and the road has switchbacks, so walking would be arduous and dangerous. We never waited more than 5 minutes for a shuttle. The shuttles are comfortable and air conditioned. Actually, I found I rather liked the door-to-door service of a shuttle – none of this hauling your beach bag down stairs and paths to get to the beach. The shuttle takes you directly there.

The Beach

The

private beach has many lounge chairs, even some with built-in canopies. There is a beach bar/snack bar (where apparently straws are not available – this made my traditional virgin strawberry daiquiri a little hard to consume) and a restaurant (the Ocean Club) at the beach. Towels are given out in stacks – no negotiating to get just one more as I’ve experienced at other resorts. You are given at least two per person and no one is scrutinizing how many you have and how many you return. The private beach was somewhat well-maintained. There were the usual issues with people claiming chairs for the day by leaving a single towel and no one seemed able to pick up their own garbage. The chairs tended to be lined up in rows at least three or four chairs deep, which meant you couldn’t be right by the water or away from the crowds. The brilliant part about this beach though is that if you don’t want to line up on the sand like sardines in a can, there is a path to Horseshoe Bay, which is the public beach next door. It is at least 1/4 mile crescent of perfect sand with lots of space. And if you keep walking, you’ll discover one hidden

cove after another – small private beaches that are yours for the taking. We enjoyed walking to the public beach and exploring the secret beaches with the dramatic scenery. Tennis courts are also located next to the beach and there was always a court available.

The Harbor

Take the shuttle in the opposite direction from the hotel and you come down to the harbor. Here there is the hotel’s most formal restaurant, The Waterlot (a steakhouse, which had excellent, over-the-top attentive service and amazing food), an outdoor waterfront bar, and a free ferry. Several times a day the ferry that is just for hotel guests shuttles across the harbor (it’s worth it for the views alone and it’s only about a 30 minute ride) to the sister property, the Fairmont Hamilton Princess. This hotel is located on the edge of  the main city of Hamilton and it’s a short walk to shops and restaurants and the city’s main harbor. Hotel guests can use the restaurants and facilities at either property.

We took the shuttle down to the harbor one evening for dinner and I was pleased to see they had a security guard at the shuttle stop, which was a bit dark and isolated.  The guard also assists guests in crossing the road to the ferry stop or restaurant.

The Pool

If you’d like to spend some time by the pool, there is a very large outdoor heated pool just off the lobby. The pool deck was spacious and comfortable and in addition to the usual loungers, they had some cute wicker cabana chairs that were almost like a little bed. This pool closes at 6:30 each evening but guests are then welcome to use the spa pool. One night the pool closed at 5 (it needed to be cleaned we were told) so they opened the spa pool earlier and we went and enjoyed it completely alone. A few afternoons later they closed half of the outdoor pool because there was a meeting on the balcony above it. This left only the shallow end of the pool and it was filled with splashing kids. We went to the spa and explained the situation and they let us in there early again. The spa pool is indoors but has lots of windows and a waterfall. It was virtually empty each time we visited. Two outdoor hot tubs were also available here. It was tranquil and lovely.

Service

Overall we were very pleased with the service at the hotel. Of particular note is the front door staff who go out of their way to be friendly, engaging, and convivial. They were hands down the best I have ever encountered. The

doormen always spoke to us and commented on where we were going and asked how our outing was when we returned. The baggage service was also excellent – prompt and friendly. There were always taxis waiting. The food service staff at the hospitality center went out of their way to be accommodating and thoughtful to us. The wait staff at the hotel restaurants were excellent. We dined at the Ocean Club (where there were some wonderful fish selections and lovely outdoor dining overlooking the beach) and at the Waterlot, as well as having the breakfast buffet at Windows each morning (the buffet was excellent with a large selection and attentive service). Everyone understood our needs as gluten-free diners and were very helpful to us. The Waterlot even offered us a special dessert and had the staff sign a card for us when they discovered it was our anniversary. No tipping

is required with the hotel staff (and gratuities are automatically included on restaurant bills). The bellman who brought our bags walked away when he saw my husband reach into his pocket. Doormen did not expect a tip.

Problems

The criticisms I have are minuscule. When we made our reservations, the hotel suggested we pay for a private shuttle to bring us to the hotel. They said it was less expensive than a taxi (and it was). We were led to believe it was run by the hotel and they told us someone would greet us with a sign with our name on it. We emerged from the airport to see lots of signs, but none with our name. We waited. Nothing. We then called the hotel and were put on hold. Eventually we asked a gentleman at a car service stand and apparently our reservation was with them. Some better instructions would have saved us about half an hour of confusion.

The hotel brought us a fruit bowl for our anniversary. It contained two strawberries, two oranges, and an apple. I opened it to discover the strawberries were rotten and molding. As previously mentioned, we had some trouble getting the gluten-free tea the first day, but things ran smoothly there after that. One morning when we went to the buffet breakfast, when we gave our room number, the hostess became a bit snide and said “Oh, the 600 floor [the gold floor]. Nice of you to come down and eat with the little people.” We didn’t appreciate that at all (we are the little people splurging on a special occasion!). For the most part we found the private concierge staff to be accommodating, however there were one or two women who were always very busy and slightly unfriendly. One morning someone else’s bill was slipped under our door by mistake. When we checked in, we were asked which newspaper summary we would like left at our door each morning. We received it only one day. The walls were a bit thin on our room and the first night we listened to the man next door throwing up and the next night listened to his diatribe on immigration.

The problems were tiny though, and overall, this was one of the most wonderful stays we have had anywhere. I felt pampered and well-cared for at this hotel and we were comfortable and relaxed nearly the entire time. The only thing I would wish for is being closer to the ocean so I could hear it from my room. Other

than that, it was a nearly perfect stay. I would stay here again and again!

I’m a little stunned to return from our stay at the Fairmont Southampton in Bermuda and discover there is no daily free breakfast, afternoon tea, appetizer, and dessert being set out for me at home. There’s no private concierge down the hall. No heated outdoor pool and restaurant on the water just down the hill. … Read more →

I recently stumbled on this quick little online piece about the 10 Most Disappointing Travel Destinations.  I started to write a Facebook post about it but realized I had far too much to say. First, I agree that some destinations are overrated, but travel is always what you make of it.  I think that when you visit a place that has a lot of hype, your job is to find the things that appeal to you. I almost always have a good sense of what I’m going to like about a destination before I go. The key is to listen to your instincts and follow your interests. That being said, I can’t help but comment on some of the destinations in this piece:

Niagara Falls, NY. Yeah, I’m all over this one. I live in Buffalo and the Falls are in our backyard. While it’s true that you can get better panoramic views of the Falls from Canada, there are things you can do on the American side that aren’t available in Canada. The Cave of the Winds gets you as close to the Falls as possible – almost underneath it. You ride an elevator down to the base of the Falls then walk across stairs and platforms where you are absolutely doused by water coming over the brink. You look up and see the Falls coming down. It is absolutely spectacular. Also on the American side there is a platform that takes you out over the gorge with an amazing view. The American side is less crowded and you can actually find a place to park. So I don’t agree that this is overrated. If you go, you’ll want to experience the Falls from both sides and you’ll realize they are completely different, but equally fun.

Temple Bar, Dublin. I didn’t find this to be overrated because it is what it’s advertised: a bunch of bars. There are some street performers which make it fun and you can see the Halfpenny Bridge. If you’re in the city at night, it’s worth a stroll just to see it. If you’re expecting something else, you will be disappointed.

Nassau, Bahamas.  Paradise Island, usually known as Atlantis, is a giant tourist trap. But it’s unfair to lump the entire area together. We stayed outside of Nassau on Telegraph Beach and it was simply gorgeous and very quiet.  Get outside the man-made sites and see the rest of this beautiful island. Go to the Fish Fry, see the marching flamingos, drive around and see the other beaches. We did spend an afternoon at Atlantis where we saw the aquariums, had lunch and did some shopping. It was fine for a few hours, but not a place I would want to stay.

Liberty Island, NY. We loved visiting Liberty Island. Getting up close and personal with the Statue of Liberty was awe-inspiring and being able to go inside the statue was something we will never forget. Don’t go in the middle of the summer on a weekend. We went on a fall weekend and the lines were not bad at all. The ferry ride there is fun. Be sure to go to Ellis Island as well, a place I could have spent hours in, where you will learn all about the immigrants who entered our country through this island. I don’t think there is anything overrated about Liberty Island. In fact, it’s a must-see on my list.

Walt Disney World, FL. I hated it here. Passionately. But I have friends who love to go because their kids are happy and the parents can just relax by the pool and not worry. We had fun on a couple of rides but the lines were outrageous. Epcot did not excite us, although we had a fun meal at a Moroccan restaurant. I knew going in I was going to hate it, but we went because we really believed our kids deserved to go. It’s almost a rite of passage in this country.

Las Vegas, NV. I think the key to Vegas is to set your expectations and plan your trip. We don’t drink or gamble, but enjoyed our visit. Our hotel had a lazy river the kids loved. We saw the Mac King magic show which was just perfect for families. We saw the tigers and the dolphins and looked at the fountains and took a gondola ride. We drove by the Pawn Stars shop. My husband and son went to a pinball museum. We had some fantastic food off the Strip. It was one of those places that I thoroughly enjoyed, but would probably never go back to.  I didn’t find it to be overrated because I found the things our family would enjoy and did those. My biggest complaint was that EVERYTHING smells like cigarette smoke. You leave Vegas and realize you absolutely stink because it is on you and all of your clothes.

I haven’t been to the other places on this list. A Facebook friend of mine commented that she would add Times Square to this list. I admit I am confused by Times Square. There is nothing to actually do there. It’s fun to walk through it at night once but I couldn’t imagine planning it as a the highlight of my trip.  I found Florence, Italy to be overrated (and one of my friends will vehemently disagree!). I thought it was an ugly city with not a lot to do. Hilton Head, SC was overrated in our view. The beaches were great (except for the jellyfish which meant we got stung then never went in again).  Because of the jellyfish, the pool was wall to wall people. There was nothing to do on that island at all – a family destination with absolutely no activities. We ended up driving into Savannah almost daily.

So now it’s your turn. Tell me what you thought was overrated as a destination.

I recently stumbled on this quick little online piece about the 10 Most Disappointing Travel Destinations.  I started to write a Facebook post about it but realized I had far too much to say. First, I agree that some destinations are overrated, but travel is always what you make of it.  I think that when … Read more →

My daughter and I recently enjoyed a girls’ getaway to St. Thomas and after years of traveling to the Caribbean for spring breaks, it wins my favorite island award. Here are 7 reasons why you should consider St. Thomas for your next spring getaway.

1. Comfortably Foreign. While I love the Caribbean, you usually are traveling to another country where there is some kind of language barrier. But St. Thomas is part of the USVI, so everyone you meet speaks English. You pay with the US dollar. You will also find some shops, like Walgreens and KMart, that are American chains. This comfort factor is balanced against the indubitably Caribbean landscape of lush beaches, many hills, tropical vegetation, pictureaque half-rundown architecture, lilting accents, hot sun, and fusion cuisine. All the thrills of a foreign country within a US territory.

2. Beaches. We’ve been to countless Caribbean beaches, but St. Thomas might have the very best. While the beach at Frenchman’s Reef at our hotel was nice, Magens Bay was

stunning. The water was crystal clear, yet appeared turquoise from a distance. The sand was soft. There was shade. The beach was long enough to walk. Chairs, kayaks, and paddle boards are available for rent. The only downside was the sheer volume of cruise ship visitors. To avoid the cruise crowds, try Honeymoon Beach which has no amenities,

but is just as nice.

3. Shopping. St. Thomas is often described as having the best shopping in the Caribbean and I have to agree. My perspective is slightly different however. The island is often lauded for shopping because of the overwhelming number of jewelry stores. I’m not in the Caribbean to buy a diamond I could buy at home (assuming a diamond was in my budget!). I’m constantly on the hunt for beautiful, unique, artisan-made, locally-created items and St. Thomas was a treasure trove. Don’t miss the St. Thomas Native Arts and

Crafts Cooperative, located on corner directly across from the Vendor’s Plaza (your typical Caribbean grouping of tents selling knock-off goods and made in Malaysia trinkets). You will also find a lovely pocket of shops not to miss in Palm Passage, one of the alleys that runs between Main Street and the waterfront. There are many artisans and artists in the USVI that sell their work on St. Thomas and there is a lot to choose from.

4. Attitude. One quirk of the Caribbean is that every island has its own personality, and each group of islanders is different. Some people are known for being unfriendly or haughty. Other islands are welcoming. St. Thomas is the friendliest island we’ve visited to date. We were never treated rudely and everyone we spoke to wore a smile and took the time to really talk to

us. People are still on island time here, so expect everyone to move slowly.

5. Food. While I still would rate Grand Case, St. Martin as the best Caribbean town for dining, St. Thomas had excellent dining across the island. Havana Blue topped our list of favorites and for fun and funky you can’t beat Duffy’s Love Shack. I also give high marks due to the prevalence of beachfront dining. This can be hard to come by on some islands, but in St. Thomas we dined at tables a few feet the beach three different nights.

6. Coral World. This tiny little aquarium doesn’t rival the dolphin experiences you can have at Paradise Island in the Bahamas, but it offers some fun and different sea life experiences: swimming with sea turtles, swimming with sharks, swimming or interacting with sea lions, swimming with sting rays, and SNUBA.

7. Beautiful Views. While driving up and over the hills in St. Thomas can take some getting used to (particularly since you are driving on the left side of the road), those same hills offer stupendous views, with specific lookout points. We took some stunning photos from Paradise Point, and there are also great views to be had Mountain Top. Drive to either or take the tramway to Paradise Point.

 

 

My daughter and I recently enjoyed a girls’ getaway to St. Thomas and after years of traveling to the Caribbean for spring breaks, it wins my favorite island award. Here are 7 reasons why you should consider St. Thomas for your next spring getaway. 1. Comfortably Foreign. While I love the Caribbean, you usually are … Read more →

A trip to the U.S. Virgin Islands seemed like just the thing to thaw my daughter and me from the polar vortex, so a girl’s getaway was in order. In researching hotels, I soon realized there weren’t a lot of options on this tiny island. The Ritz is the most expensive and the next step down was the Marriott or Sugar Bay. The Marriott seemed to fit our needs, with pools and a beach, comfortable rooms, a large breakfast buffet, and a location close to Charlotte Amalie (every other hotel is another 20-30 minutes away).

We got in our rental car and drove on the left side of the road to the hotel (my first experience driving on the left!). Although we had directions and Google maps, we pulled in at a Marriott that was not our hotel. Before you arrive at the hotel there is a Marriott time share. The sign out front does not indicate it is a time share and not the hotel, so after a confusing attempt to check in, we were directed to the Marriott hotel next door. This time we found it and  walked into the open air lobby to check in. Our room was not ready but we were told it had been cleaned and just had to be inspected. We were given a pager. I asked about parking and was told there are a few spots in front (only about 8 total truly) and then there is a parking garage up the hill. We ended up parking in the garage and hauled our luggage down a very steep hill. No one explained there is a staircase in the garage that leads to a walkway to the hotel. There are signs on one level of the garage, but we did not see any on the top level.

First Impressions

We sat on a terrace and enjoyed the ice water and free rum punch served in the lobby. However, it was hot. We were tired. After half an hour I inquired again at the desk and

was told the room had still not been inspected and that the desk clerk would call and request the inspection. 45 minutes went by and we hauled ourselves and our luggage into the lobby and conspicuously stood near the desk. Someone asked if we needed help and I explained about the room and said I could not believe it took an hour and 15 minutes to simply inspect a room and in fact I could care less if it had been inspected. I wanted to check in and if there was a problem I would call. This time we were told the room had been inspected but the system had not been updated and thus our pager did not go off.

Our Room

At last we were given our keys (only one of which worked) and directed to the room. Our room was on the first floor, which is below the main area of the hotel (the lobby is on 4 and the pool and restaurant are on 3). In fact this is actually a partial basement, carved into the cliff. Our room had a lovely walk out patio with a view of the Charlotte Amalie harbor. There were three cruise ships in port every day we were there and we had a good view of the cruise ship dock, as well as the entire harbor. The patio entrance was a regular glass door that locked with only a small lock that turned in the door knob. There was a dead bolt but a key was required. I would have been more comfortable with a room that opened to the outside if it had a deadbolt. The floors above us had balconies.

The room was comfortable with two double beds (both comfortable), an arm chair, a desk, and a dresser that contained an empty refrigerator (no mini-bar nonsense!) and a coffee maker, glasses and safe. Two of the pillows were flat and two were acceptable. The bathroom was adequate but not as nice, as updated, or as comfortable as the room – a cramped one room unit with sink, toilet and tub. We soon discovered that the room was perpetually damp. Our damp (not wet) bathing suits and cover ups never dried when hung over a chair overnight. Bathroom towels never dried. There was also no vent or fan in the bathroom. The dampness definitely made us feel as though we were in the basement. The upside of the basement was that it was very quiet. There were no people pounding through the halls, no footsteps over your head or other sounds.

We paid $649 per night for this room. I felt it was high, but that’s about what you can expect to pay in high season in the Caribbean for a hotel of this caliber. I found some of the hotel staff very helpful and others were adequate. All had clearly been carefully trained however to greet guests with a smile and a “hello, how are you?” Most tried to make small talk as well. This was friendly but it honestly got a bit tiring. Every time I needed to speak to someone I had to have a long conversation. I did appreciate talking to staff who truly tried to be friendly and welcoming.

The Beach

Our first order of business was to head to the beach. There were no signs and no indication in the guest guide in our room where the beach was. We found the pool area (two pools, both with infinity edges and a hot tub with a bar area and a kids’ sprinkler pad) but could not find the beach. Finally we asked and were directed around a corner near the towel service (no signs pointing the way). We emerged to find a “scenic elevator to the beach” as the sign said, which was out of order. We still couldn’t get to the beach. We asked again and were told there were 87 (!) stairs around the corner from the elevator. This was a bit of a surprise to us. There were indeed MANY stairs, but they were spaced out a big with longer steps. Going down wasn’t so bad. Going up was a challenge and we passed people huffing and puffing their way up.

The stairs ended at a boardwalk by some tennis courts and at last – the beach. It was a lovely private beach, accessible only to guests of the Marriott and Marriott Morningstar resort next door. Chairs and umbrellas were free, but the umbrellas were hard to come by. Behind the beach was another pool. We never did determine where you could get towels down there (we were told you could) but I immediately located the bar for my daily virgin strawberry daiquiris. The water was warm, but the waves are strong with an undertow. It gets deep very quickly. This area is called Frenchman’s Reef because there is a reef out there – and we could see waves breaking on it. There is also an island out

from the shore and plenty of boat traffic. At the end of the day you can see the cruise ships coming around the point from Charlotte Amalie.  The sand was soft but HOT! The beach is long enough that you don’t feel crowded, unless you want to sit under an umbrella. A nice touch is a hose at the base of the steps to the bar to rinse your feet. There is a breeze at the beach (this is the windward side of the island) but it was just enough to keep us from getting too hot without disturbing us.

The hotel offers a shuttle to the Morningstar Resort if you can’t do the stairs down to the beach. We took this shuttle to dinner one evening and it was literally a 2 minute ride and the shuttle is

always looping around, so it is possible to access the beach without the stairs.

The Pools

We tried out all of the pools and enjoyed the infinity pools the most. The pools tended to be fairly crowded and it was difficult to find two chairs together on the pool decks. Both infinity pools on

the hotel terrace have lounge chairs directly in the water, to what end I’m unsure, since the chair is above the water (it’s not like you’re touching the water), but I suppose you could reach your foot down to cool off. We found all of the pools to be just a bit too cool for us, although they were definitely refreshing. The Morningstar pool down at the beach is larger, but had more families in it.

The Breakfast

I am not embarrassed to tell you that we make a lot of our hotel decisions based on breakfast. Is it included? Is it a big buffet? And are there some gluten-free options? Breakfast might be one of our favorite things about staying at a hotel. The Marriott included breakfast in our package and what a breakfast it was. Served on the 3rd floor of the hotel in a room with nearly floor to ceiling windows looking out over the Charlotte Amalie harbor, this was a buffet we most definitely approved of. And the best part was one hot dish changed each day, so there was no breakfast fatigue. There was an omelet and waffle station, cereal, fruit, meats and cheeses, pastries and breads, yogurt and cottage cheese and at least 5 hot dishes which always included scrambled eggs, turkey sausage, potatoes, and bacon and regular sausage.  The changing dish included eggs benedict, a frittata, and my favorite  – corned beef hash, which was served to us the morning after St. Patrick’s Day showing me that the hotel not only makes its own breakfast, but someone in the kitchen plans wisely, making the most of all of their resources. Our server offered milk, coffee, tea, and juices. If you ordered coffee (we did not) it came in an

insulated carafe AND in addition to your nicely sized china mugs, you are given takeout cups to take your coffee with you. Loved this. The staff at the restaurant was friendly but not pushy. We enjoyed our breakfasts there very much. I found a lot to eat that was gluten-free.

The Location

The hotel is situated on a little peninsula so it is possible to look in two directions and see ocean from certain terraces, which is really lovely. Your room will either look out over the harbor (as did ours – although it was called a full oceanview room) or it will look out over the beach to the open ocean (called an island view), however these rooms are above the pool area. We had a rental car, so we drove ourselves to Charlotte Amalie (about a 5 minute drive) and also to Red Hook and up to Magens Bay. Nothing was more than a half hour drive for us, so we felt the location was ideal. If you do not rent a car, you can take a taxi to town (but you will have to wait while one is called for you), or you can take the hotel ferry. Ferry is a bit of a misnomer. There is a small boat that leaves from a dock (down many stairs) that will take you to the heart of Charlotte Amalie.

This is not free and there is a $7 per person fee each way and you must buy tickets in the hotel lobby. It goes every half hour. There is a handful of shops in the hotel, including a gift/snack shop that offers packaged sandwiches and salads as well as desserts. It was vastly overpriced (we paid $9 for a pint of Haagen Daz).

We dined at Havana Blue at the Morningstar Resort and it may have been our best meal. There is also a beachside restaurant called Coco Joe’s, a restaurant near the pool and the dining room where we had breakfast each day.

Overall we enjoyed our stay and found the hotel comfortable and relaxing. The biggest drawbacks are the stairs to the beach (if the elevator would work this would not be a concern) and the limited parking. Once we got the last spot in the ramp and another time we followed some people to their car when there were no spaces.

 

A trip to the U.S. Virgin Islands seemed like just the thing to thaw my daughter and me from the polar vortex, so a girl’s getaway was in order. In researching hotels, I soon realized there weren’t a lot of options on this tiny island. The Ritz is the most expensive and the next step … Read more →

Today is the fifth post in my five part series about Ireland, leading up to St. Patrick’s Day weekend.  A week about Ireland wouldn’t be complete without mention of Irish music and dance.  My daughter grew up watching videos of Riverdance and Lord of the Dance, so we certainly couldn’t go to Ireland without seeing some live, authentic Irish Dance. I have to give a shout out to my friend Kerry Dexter who blogs at Music Road about Irish and

Scottish music and spent a lot of time coming up

with options for me to consider for live music and dance. She is a true expert and I highly recommend her blog.

We ended up choosing to see the show at the Brú Ború Cultural Center in South Tipperary.  If you are in the area, you must go. Check their

calendar since shows are not performed every night.

The center is located at the foot of the Rock of Cashel. The Rock of Cashel is an imposing ruin that was the seat of the kings of Munster, where St. Patrick converted King Aenghus to Christianity. It is the most visited heritage site in Ireland and it is certainly an impressive collection of Celtic and medieval art. The rock is actually a church/monastery that is in ruins and which sits at the top of a very steep hill. You park at the bottom and climb up. It’s worth the climb though. The view is spectacular and you will get to see a High Cross, frescoes, and the ruined cathedral, tower, and chapel. We visited the Rock during the day and returned at night to the cultural center for the show.

The show we saw had two parts. The first half was in a theater. A cast of at least 20 played instruments, sang, and danced. There were heart rending solos, toe-tapping dances, reels, and jigs. There are harps, fiddles, and many other instruments. The show was mesmerizing, even if we couldn’t understand much of what was sung (most was in Irish). The performers were talented and seemed to really enjoy their work.

Once the show in the theater ends, guests are invited to the pub to continue the evening for a traditional céilidh, singing in a more informal venue with storytelling and impromptu dancing. We didn’t stay for this (we had a long drive ahead of us that night), but it looked to be shaping up to

be a good time.

I would be remiss if I failed to mention the cultural center has a nice gift shop. There are a few tacky souvenir shops at the very bottom of the Rock’s driveway. There is a tiny cafe on the road that leads from the cultural center’s parking lot to the Rock’s driveway where we had a very satisfactory lunch.

Don’t miss the Rock or the show, but plan to stay up late!

 

Today is the fifth post in my five part series about Ireland, leading up to St. Patrick’s Day weekend.  A week about Ireland wouldn’t be complete without mention of Irish music and dance.  My daughter grew up watching videos of Riverdance and Lord of the Dance, so we certainly couldn’t go to Ireland without seeing … Read more →

By this point in my week-long series about Ireland, in honor

of St. Patrick’s Day, you’re getting the hint that I loved Ireland. I certainly did. Ireland has almost everything I look for in a vacation spot: good food, friendly people, stunning scenery, lots of things to see and do, and of course, excellent shopping. The shopping in Ireland was so good we had to buy a cheap extra suitcase to get it all home (much less expensive than shipping it — read my piece about getting your vacation treasures home).

One of the best places for shopping and for simply soaking up the ambience of an adorably quaint Irish town, complete with its own castle, is Kilkenny. Kilkenny is in southeast Ireland and was our first stay outside of Dublin. You pull into town and you’re on a narrow, winding village road, flanked by tiny shops on each side. It is exactly what you might imagine a small town in Ireland to look like. The sidewalks are busy with people and the road goes over a river and past a

castle.

We stayed at the Kilkenny River Court Hotel, situated directly across the river from Kilkenny Castle. The location was perfect, but  the rooms left a little to be desired. Our rooms looked out over the parking lot and were a bit old fashioned and

dated. There is no air conditioning and signs warn you not to open your windows due to black flies from the river. Which leaves quite a conundrum when it is a warm summer day. There was one tiny window with a screen in each room that we opened, but we were uncomfortable all night. The beds were tiny and quite hard. The lobby, in comparison, was beautiful.

The hotel’s restaurant looks out on the river and the castle, as does an outdoor patio, so you can get your fill of the view there if the one from your room is lacking. We enjoyed dinner at the hotel one night and were pleased to find they easily accommodated our gluten free diet, even bringing gluten free bread with dinner. We each had a three course meal for 21.95 Euros. Greek salad with roasted vegetables, tiger prawns, fried goat cheese salad, mushroom and courgette (zucchini) soup, pork saltimbocca with apple and sweet potato, salmon with fennel, steak, and a lovely lemon posset (mousse) left us very content and pleased. The breakfast in the morning was also well done.

Kilkenny Castle, built in 1195, is open for visitors and is a very nicely kept castle (compared to the

ruins of Blarney Castle) and just across the bridge from the hotel. The real reason to go to Kilkenny is the shopping. Kilkenny is an artisan hub. The Kilkenny Shop has its home base here (with outlets all over Ireland) because so many artisans live and work in this area. You can pick up a map at your hotel or at the local tourism office of all the artisan workshops and stores in the area – there are many.

We visited two such artisan shops. Jerpoint Glass sells gorgeous artisan glass in many colors. I knew about this gallery because my parents visited when they were in Ireland and brought me a few pieces. I was able to add to my collection while there, bringing home a beautiful bowl and vase. We also visited Nicholas Mosse Pottery, but nothing there spoke to me. It’s worth a visit since you can watch the potters in action and there are two floors of goods to choose from, including a large room of seconds.

The best shopping was at The Kilkenny Shop itself,

directly across the street from the castle. I bought many wonderful things here, including my Irish fisherman’s sweater (something you’ll see all over Ireland, but I had trouble finding one designed for a plus-size woman that didn’t just look like a big man’s sweater), some crystal and jewelry. The Kilkenny Shop ships so we had most of it shipped home. We also visited the Kilkenny Shop in Dublin before we came to Kilkenny. While that shop is bigger, I preferred the one in Kilkenny. The Dublin shop emphasizes Waterford and other high price items. I found more unique items in Kilkenny.

We happened to be in town the day before the big Kilkenny Arts Festival, so some artists were already setting up near the castle and the Kilkenny Shop and I found a few treasures there as well.

Wandering around town, we saw a wedding party taking photos at the castle and another taking photos by the river. It was a lovely town to stroll through.

This lively little town is the perfect place to do some shopping and experience a well-preserved castle.

 

 

By this point in my week-long series about Ireland, in honor of St. Patrick’s Day, you’re getting the hint that I loved Ireland. I certainly did. Ireland has almost everything I look for in a vacation spot: good food, friendly people, stunning scenery, lots of things to see and do, and of course, excellent shopping. … Read more →

I recently posted about Adare, called the prettiest town in Ireland. My assessment didn’t quite match the moniker. However, to offset that disappointment, we were lucky enough to stay someplace that had the most beautiful view we came across.  If you go to Ireland, you will be told that you must “do” the Ring of Kerry. This 179 kilometer drive is truly spectacular. It takes you along the coastline of the Iveragh Peninsula in County Kerry in southwest Ireland. We truly enjoyed the Ring of Kerry (might have enjoyed it more if we didn’t have two kids prone to carsickness) – the ocean views are gorgeous and the lovely little towns along the way break up the

scenery. If you go, be sure to pull down at least one of the roads that leads down to the beach. We stopped and found the most magnificent beach with ruins. But wait – this isn’t the best view in Ireland.

We took lots of photos as we drove around the Ring and all of them are spectacular. I’m sharing just a few here so you can get a sense of the overwhelming beauty of this area. The photos cannot do it justice and I would have loved to have more time to explore the area. We heard lots of warnings about getting stuck behind tour buses, but we had no problems at all. There was very little traffic and we had no problems getting around at all.

As gorgeous as the Ring of Kerry is, none of these are my favorite view.

We stayed at  theAghadoe Heights Hotel outside of Killarney while in the area. This was advertised as a luxurious spa hotel. It was a very modern hotel with comfortable surroundings.  While it was a lovely hotel, it didn’t quite live up to its hype, at least for the accommodations. Our beds were hard. The AC/heating unit was very loud and blew either very hard or not at all – in both rooms we had. Those complaints are minor however because the staff was very friendly (except for one waiter who seemingly became angry when we spilled something and seemed not interested in helping us), there was coffee, tea and fruit infused water in the lobby and the restaurant was simply excellent.  The best thing about the hotel was the view. It is nestled in the Kerry Mountains, overlooking the Lakes of Killarney. The view is so good that tour buses pull up and discharge people to walk over and take photos. I

could have sat in front of the giant picture window in our hotel room all day, simply watching the light play on the lakes, hills, and islands. There was an old church or monastery on one of the islands as well. There was no boat traffic at all.  The lakes are an incredible mosaic of different sized bodies of water, tiny islands, larger islands, and hills. It is simply enchanting. Inside the hotel there is a huge map on one of the walls, naming all of the islands and points.

The hotel is situated across a road from a viewing area and we walked over and would have sat on

the bench there for hours, just soaking in the beauty if we had had time.

We were able to see the Lakes of Killarney from other angles as well. Our Ring of Kerry pathway brought us through other parts of the area and we saw some stunning hills, lakes, and islands from other viewpoints. I would go back here and kayak to get to see it up close and personal. Hiking in the hills would be a lovely experience. There is so much to see and do here. We stayed two nights and could have spent so much more time here.

 

I recently posted about Adare, called the prettiest town in Ireland. My assessment didn’t quite match the moniker. However, to offset that disappointment, we were lucky enough to stay someplace that had the most beautiful view we came across.  If you go to Ireland, you will be told that you must “do” the Ring of … Read more →